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Friday, June 24, 2005
Prattville, AL

Day 1

Left Prattville for what I'd soon call "The Big Circle Trip." Some folks think it's crazy to ride a Harley-Davidson Sportster on trips more than 50 miles. I plan to cover a sizable chunk of the United States on this trip. We'll see if the motorcycle (and my rear end) can stand the strain.

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Saturday, June 25
Tennessee, Kentucky, and Ohio

Day 2

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Sunday, June 26
Ohio

Day 3

What a day. HOT. Wish I was back in Alabama!

Bike sure handles differently. Never had this much baggage before. At least it doesn't affect the mileage.

580 miles, LOTs of back roads, and tons of scenery. Miles and miles of corn, wheat, beans, etc. The smells of hot, freshly applied cow manure in the fields; fresh-cut hay; trees in bloom; and dairy farms (that smelled a lot like the fertilizer I mentioned). Dogs must love it here.

Saw several Harley dealerships, all in small towns in the midst of nothingness. And hot. Did I mention it got hot? Temps hit 96 on my route; and my nifty handlebar thermometer hit 106. At dusk, it was still almost 90.

Rode somewhat northeast to just north of Toledo. Stopped along the shores of Lake Huron. Never been there. A big lake. A "Great" lake. Then I saw a sign that read, "Pacific Ocean, Next Left." So that's my general direction for the next few days.

Just after sunset, the fireflies came out. Millions of them (along back roads you can actually see -- and feel -- them). Looking out across the cornfields, they just sparkled ... Like a sprawling city from a great distance. Beautiful.

Yup. This is it. "Lucy, I'm home!!"

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Monday, June 27
Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, and Wisconsin

Day 4

Nice day, nice ride. Gave Chicago a WIDE berth and circled back up to Verona, WI, where I had a terrific visit with my niece and her girls. Gave them each a ride. Don't know who enjoyed it more; me or them!

Didn't make it quite to Minnesota tonight. But the day ended with a sunset that the camera could never capture. Tall west-Wisconsin bluffs as the backdrop, whisps of clouds in a blue-pink sky above, and trees and crops lightly shrouded in fog below.

And it's FINALLY starting to cool off.

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Tuesday, June 28
Wisconsin, Minnesota, and South Dakota

Day 5

A day riding is better than ... well, anything else I've got going for me!

The weather forecast this morning called for rain storms covering my entire intended route -- from Wisconsin, across Minnesota and Iowa, and nearly all of South Dakota, with the most severe storms covering about 150 miles right in the middle of my ride.

That said, the weather was Perfect for all my 850 miles. As usual, lots of visual delights along the way. I also side-tracked in a big loop through several National Grassland areas. Heck, I didn't even know there WERE such places. Very cool sights, though -- lots of hay, wheat, alfalfa, and other stuff I couldn't identify. Including about 100 miles surrounded by thousands of acres (as far as you could see) of some kind of "grass" that was ALL in full bloom with brilliant yellow blossoms. The smell was heavenly. Unfortunately, 30 miles of that leg was on gravel roads, termed "gravel windrows," according to the warning signs. All I know is my bike is now dirtier than it's ever been. Darned near looks like a Suzuki!

Later....

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Wednesday, June 29
South Dakota and Wyoming

Day 6

Another day with talk of rain, but saw none.

Started off at the Wall Drug store. To me, just a tourist shopping stop, but after seeing their signs every mile or two since eastern South Dakota, I felt obliged to go.

Then hit the Badlands National Park. In a word, "breathtaking." The Grand Canyon ain't got nothin' on this place. The colors, formations, wildlife... Great. 30 mile central drive could take you all day if you had time; other roads if you had several days.

Then hit Mount Rushmore. Stone heads of four dead guys. Just shows that if you put together the heads of four politicians, you're off to a rocky start.

Then on to Devil's Tower National Park in Wyoming. In a word, "awesome." Impressive when I first saw it from 15 miles away. Up close, truly magnificent. I can see why those aliens chose that spot to land their big, sparkly space ship.

Finally, heading across WY. Route 16 is a MUST RIDE! Went from 4,000 feet at Buffalo to over 9,700 feet in the blink of an eye. Well, except for two stops I made to add layers of clothing! Along the first 70 miles, magnificent scenery, sure. Plus it featured constantly winding road -- some hairpins, some long and gentle. Perfect for anyone. Also, saw deer (missed them all, but most just stood their turf and stared), rode beside babbling streams and raging whitewater rapids, found SNOW, and rode through a DEEP valley with vertical mountains on each side. Made me feel downright insignificant. (Even beyond what Regions does to me.)

Bike keeps working perfectly, sun block not working well enough. Even sun-burned my scalp (long story.) Still, I could grow fond of this kind of travel!

Only problem so far, my air horns stopped working. I learned that with deer #1.

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Thursday, June 30
Wyoming and Idaho

Day 7

A lot of riding, a touch of rain, and cold the whole way. I wish I'd brought MORE cold weather gear!

Rode to Teton National Park. I'd like to tell you I was awestruck; but there were just these big mountains. Yeah, I know. But it wasn't that different from other mountains I've seen or ridden through. Maybe it lacked punch due to heavy cloud cover (you couldn't see the peaks of several) and poor, bland lighting.

Anyway, on to Yellowstone. Didn't see Yogi or Booboo, but did see more deer. Thankfully they've been around cars so much, they never jumped onto the road out of fear. I WAS amazed at the amount of forest area had been destroyed by fires over the past several years. Looked like a bomb had exploded in so many areas. My guess is that 70% of the lands along the road I took were burned -- but this was just one road, so what I saw represents a tiny fraction of the park. I'm sure most of the rest is fine, but sad so many trees were destroyed. However thousands of cute, young trees are filling those spaces already.

And if anyone's keeping score, I crossed the Continental Divide five times today. It's obviously not a straight line!

Stopped in Boise, I'd, for the night.

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Friday, July 1
Idaho and Oregon

Day 8

Slept late and got a late start. Tough. The pillow felt SO good.

Left Boise and headed west, sorta, and into Washington. There I stopped to see Stonehenge! Actually, it's a recreation of the construction in Brittain, with a few minor differences. This one is complete -- okay, so we're assuming the guy who built it knew something nobody else does. It's also somewhat smaller. And it's a memorial to local veterans who've died in conflict. Pretty cool, actually. And since that's the only reason I went to WA, I headed south through Oregon.

Went through Lava National Monument -- or something like that. Maybe someday I can come back and spend more time there.

Then I took a route discussed in the American Motorcycle Assn's book on great rides in the US. I'm fresh out of superlatives. Let's just say it was much more than the "guide book" said. Finished the route just at sunset -- and so near out of gas.... My butt has a serious pucker. Fortunately I found a gas station and a motel in the little town of Lakeview.

By the way, my most expensive gas was here in OR -- $2.75. Highest I've seen so far was $2.96, also in OR. And Oregon is odd; no such thing as self-service gas. The attendants have clearly dealt with enough bikers, though. They know enough to let us pump our own.

All in all, weather was perfect, and the air's so clean you can see more than a hundred miles. Trust me -- that "Christmas Valley" route I mentioned proved it. Hope some of the pictures turn out.

Another 650 miles of wear and tear.

Now, on to more sights!

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Saturday, July 2
Oregon, Washington, and California

Day 9

Well, this was an odd mix.

Started off across a "shortcut" toward the coast. Weather was perfect -- I'm getting spoiled. What a great road it turned out to be. The road was in great shape, with more turns than I could count. Some wide, sweeping, lazy curves, some perfect hairpins, and everything in between. Lots of "S corners," often strung together 6 or more times. And scenery; wow. As for the traffic ... I think I saw more squirrels than cars.

One problem, no gas stations. Had 170 miles on the tank when I luckily found a station. As I pulled up to the pump, I thought my bike sounded a little different. Sounded a bit like one of the baffles had fallen out of one pipe. I was wrong. When I looked back, I counted exactly ONE pipe! Seems the rear pipe burned through (the WHOLE pipe) right at the head, which apparently allowed enough vibration to break the mounting hardware. It fell off somewhere back on that long stretch. So I killed several hours at the nearest dealership while they tried to come up with a quick fix for me. But after three hours, they admitted they couldn't help. So I continued west.

Took a couple great roads to get to the redwood forests. Magnificent trees. Almost unreal. Now I know where Steven Spielberg got some of his inspiration.

As I was riding through the park, I heard my remaining pipe drag as I took right-hand corners. With me, that's not too strange, but these were minor corners. So I stopped to investigate, thinking maybe the bracket had come loose. (What else could go wrong!). It hadn't. What DID happen (and I wouldn't believe this either, which is why I took pictures of it), the remaining pipe had broken in half!! I caught it before the trailing piece fell off in traffic, and stuck it in my saddlebag. Know anyone who needs half of one pipe?

So I stopped in Eureka, CA, for the night. This is the closest dealership. I'll check with them first thing in the morning to see if they can get me moving again.

By the way, when you think of "Sunny California," beaches, the ocean, and such, do YOU think of warm? Or even Hot!? WAY wrong. As soon as I hit the coastline, the temp dropped about 25 degrees! I'd been toasty warm riding in the sun. But here ... 55 degrees and high humidity. I'd have frozen my butt off if it weren't for the fact I've already worn it off in the saddle!

The saga continues....

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Sunday, July 3
California

Day 10

Last night, I got the last room at the first hotel I checked. Cool.

Riding today, mostly boring. Just getting from one point to another. Actually, both "ends" of the route were cool, in terms of both riding and temperature. The middle was Interstate 5 -- incredibly HOT (over 105). Poured most of my water over myself just to feel alive. Ended up the day just a little outside Lake Tahoe (I didn't stay IN Tahoe -- it's way too congested).

And I ALMOST broke the $3 mark -- I paid $2.99(9) for gas in Lake Tahoe.

Now for the "It's A Small World" category:

1. At the hotel last night I bumped into a fellow biker -- also a Sportster rider. We happened to park next to each other. While we talked about all sorts of stuff, we also talked about the sad state of my pipes. He laughed when he heard it run -- Everyone who heard it did. Anyway, he said he'd just put new pipes on his new 883 Sporty at the dealership right there in Eureka the day before. I asked the very forward question, "What did you DO with your OLD pipes?" He'd left then with the dealer and planned to go pick them up in a few days, but didn't need them. He said he'd call the dealer first thing in the morning to tell them to let me have them if they'd fit. He didn't call. He CAME to the shop to make sure I got them. And they did fit. So it cost me $65 to get on the road again. And in about 90 minutes! How's that?!?

2. I walked around back to pick up my bike, and ended up chatting with another rider whose repaired bike had been parked next to mine. We were each heading where the other had just been, so it was time well spent. Then I noticed his license plate -- Minnesota! I told him I was born and raised there. Then he said he lived in White Bear Lake. Wow. I don't think he believed me when I told him I married my first wife there! (Can't blame him.)

3. Got to this little hotel late tonight. Parked next to a Honda Gold Wing in the drive. A gal about my age was taking her 80-year-old mom cross-country! Neat. (They were from Atlanta. And she was wearing a shirt from north Alabama, while her mom wore a Harley shirt!) And we were each heading where the other had just been, so it was time well spent again!

Small world indeed.

And by the way, tonight, I got the last room at the first hotel I checked. Cool again.

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Monday, July 4
California

Day 11

I guess this was my "national park day." All three were close to each other, so visited Yosemite, King's Canyon, and Sequoia. All in all, nature is awesome. Yosemite is my favorite; trees, plains, lakes, streams, rapids, water falls, wildlife, snow... A great place to spend ANY amount of time. But being the middle of the 3-day weekend, the crowd got bad after noon, so I headed on.

And I got some GREAT news today. I got to see "the world's largest living thing," and it WASN'T ME! It's a sequoia tree called General Sherman. Neat, but impossible to take a picture of it -- it's just too big. But I tried anyway.

Ended up the day in Fresno. I'm looking forward to some highway driving tomorrow. Believe it or not, but I've had enough turns and curves for a while. I rode pretty much all day just on the sides of my tires!

Oh, and I broke that "3" level -- paid $3.30 / gal for gas. Glad I get good mileage.

Have a Great Fourth!

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Tuesday, July 5
California

Day 12

Hope your Fourth celebration was happy. Actually, I hope you did something special!

I started off today going back through Yosemite -- this time BEFORE the crowds got out of hand.

Next, rode south down to Death Valley. Got here late afternoon, but still had time to see things I'd not seen before. Stopped at one of the FEW stores (okay, 2) in the park for something cold to drink. Got me the biggest soda they sold! And the gal at the register wouldn't let me pay for it ... she said for any "fellow bikers," she bought the first drink. She just lost her Harley in a divorce, but she's planning on a new one soon. She also bought drinks for a German couple who stopped by -- they were using Harley's "fly and ride" program. That makes 2 German couples and one from Sweden I've met in the past four days. Amazing.

I also learned a new and VALUABLE word from the Shoshone Indian tribe that call Death Valley their home. It's Deramadvits. Seriously, folks, write it down. It's valuabled advice!

Actually, I learned that it's an acronym for the wise old saying, Don't EVER ride a motorcycle across Death Valley in the summer.

'Nuf said? Temp was 118 in the shade. Dry heat or not, when you have 60-mile-an-hour air at 118 degrees or more hitting you, plus the sun bearing down through the crystal clear air (not to mention the heat coming up from the engine) .... Trust me. You can hear your skin fry.

And in our "never say never" department, never say that's the maximum you'll pay for gas. I set two personal records today -- the top cost was $3.40/gal. Inside Death Valley. But the place is so huge, you NEED to refill on a bike at least once.

Tomorrow after I visit the quiet little town of Zzyzx (that's no typo), I'll start my meandering route home. Still more to see and do!

Later!

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Wednesday, July 6
California, Nevada, and Utah

Day 13

Another hot day. Went to Zzyzx - nobody home.

Weather was great until about 10:00, then it turned HOT again. Not as bad as Death Valley, but still enough to force me into every Dairy Queen I saw!

Then it was through Las Vegas and on to Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks. Both were amazing, of course. The National Parks Service sure knows how to protect and maintain America's greatest natural resources.

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Thursday, July 7
Utah, Colorado, and New Mexico

Day 14

Went through Black Canyon National Park early today. Small and nice, but after seeing the other parks, I give this one thumb down.

Then I got to Mt Evans. I didn't know it, but it's now a National Park as well. And words can't describe the experience. This is truly an "E-Ticket Ride!" Start off with a few lazy turns surrounded by pine.

Suddenly, you're above the tree line and have various grasses, rocks, and small lakes. Then a long series of tight twists up the side of the mountain. Then you realize that you have a vertical wall of stone on one side, and Nothing on the other -- several thousand feet down. The turns become true hairpins, and 12 MPH would be pushing your luck. Finally at the top, the view is priceless. And you've finished riding the highest paved road in North America. So on this trip I went from the lowest to the highest. In Death Valley I was dizzy from the heat. On Mt Evans I was dizzy from the euphoria -- okay, it was actually hypoxia, but it felt the same. Over 14,000 feet. Wow.

Ended the day in New Mexico, hope to end tomorrow in Texas.

And since from here on it's just me driving home, I'll conclude my reports here -- unless something worthy of your time happens. Plan to get home early Sunday.

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Thursday, July 8
New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, and Arkansas

Day 15

Fairly uneventful ride toward the barn. Unless you call riding into a hurricane an event. Hurricane Dennis had just started pounding the Gulf Coast, and the rains extended all the way up across my path through Mississippi and Alabama. So I had my share of wet riding -- enough to last a long, long time.

The only problems associated with this leg (aside from the rains) was finding gas stations. Seems many had been shutting down because of the hurricane. Who knows why. They probably needed the time to change all the prices on the pumps to charge more following the storm.

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Saturday, July 9
Arkansas, Mississippi, and Alabama -- and Home again.

Day 16

The "numbers" from my trip:

Trip length of 16 days.
Touched ground in 26 states and 15 national parks/monuments.
Rode 8,848 miles, with 152 hours "in the saddle".

Glad to be home, Dennis or not.

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